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Cave Man



Joined: 09 Mar 2009
Posts: 52
Location: Cave Spring, Ga


PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shane. Man go ahead and get you a set of dells. I had 36's on ny lil 1776 and it was great once they were set up.
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 879
Location: Aircooled Heaven USA


PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those who run single carbs are too dense to realize that duals are EASIER to tune than a single!! Some of the most difficult engines I have ever worked with had a damn single carb, duals are far superior.. They attain better MPG, the engine runs cooler and smoother.

Quote:
I've put atleast 25k on it since I built it last september and I dont ever have to fool with it. I change the oil and check the valves every3000 and thats about it.


Here are the results of a 160,000 mile "non stock" engine that made 50 HP more than stock.. I drove this engine for 8 years and the last time I adjusted the valves was in 2003.. I went 23K miles on a single oil change and it was built from mostly used parts!!
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=98&Itemid=112

It needed zero repair work in that period of time.. I just finished rebuilding it and bumping the CR to 9.83:1...

It cost me 1225.00 to build the engine in 2002 from the core out of my car.. I drove it 160K and got 34 MPG on a bad day.. Then it cost me 450.00 in parts to rebuild it to the point you see in this pic




Quote:
I just drove the shit outta my "not stock at all" engine and I don't tinker with it either


Yeah.. NOTHING in that engine is stock.. From the roller cam and lifters, Nickies cylinders, roller rockers, 9.8:1 CR, dual 45 Dells, 48X38mm valves, etc, etc... Hell ALL those parts in that engine were "used". The cylinder heads were used in an autocross engine making 220HP for SEVEN seasons of racing at 12.8:1 CR!

Even running A/C in 100 degree heat at 80 MPH it has no issue.

Most all problems related to non-stock engines is the fault of the person modifying the engine... Do it half ass and its going to be a problem..
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Jake Raby
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with that. Any jackass can order a bunch of hotrod shit from jc whitney and throw an engine together that will spin the tires. But building one that dont leak oil and will last100k+ is a different story. It dont matter if its a VW or a Benz or a Honda. If you want it to last you have to get alittle technical. What do you think of an 1835? Do you think dells would be overkill for that size engine?
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Shane Price
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 879
Location: Aircooled Heaven USA


PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Despite what some people have said about an 1835, I have had good luck with them.. BUT if you are gonna do it may as well go with a 94 bore, the cylinders are actually thicker than the 92s that make an 1835.

Attention to detail is the key.. Some people have it and some don't.. I have about 100 hours in reassembling my 912E engine, but all the deck heights are within .001 of each other, the chambers are within .2cc of each other. Things like lapping cylinders into heads for a proper seal, setting the spring pressures at full lift based on the cam you are running, blueprinting the oil pump and of course valve train geometry make a big difference.

I sealed that engine up with everything loctited in place for another 150,000+ miles of service in it's future...
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Jake Raby
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure you can teach me some things. I do lap my cylinders and when I turn my ring gaps I dont put any striaght down where the oil pools in the bottom of the cylinder. I know a few little tricks but I wanna know what you know Smile I can build a vw engine that dont leak oil and I think thats a big deal . Most people think thats normal for a vw to leak oil. I've got close to 30k on this engine and it's dry as a bone! It's funny when I pull up at a nice house in the driveway and they ask "does your car leak oil ?" Cause they dont want an oil spot. It's a good feelin to say "nope not this bug" I am anxious to balance my engine parts. Never done that before. I do wiegh my pistons and rods with my little digital gram scale and even them up if need be.
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Shane Price
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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Location: Aircooled Heaven USA


PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My engine with 160K didn't leak until I dynoed it for 4 straight days testing an experimental EFI system... If I have an engine that leaks I can't sleep at night.

Setting ring gaps using an oven is one of my self taught tricks... And so is the use of Dental floss and even tooth paste.. And even making lapping compound from Ajax/ Comet...
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Jake Raby
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats me. The smallest leak will drive me crazy Mad I dont kno those tricks. Set ring gaps w an oven?
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Shane Price
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give me your opinion on this Jake if you dont mind. I have 2 cases. Both as41. One has big studs with case savers. The other is a small stud F.I. case so I would have to run an elec. fuelpump because it has no place for a mechanical one. Which one would you use? The bearing saddles are almost perfect on both but if I'm building a performance engine plus I have to have it flycut I'm gonna still have it align bored. I was gonna just run a mechanical fuel pump.What do you think?
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Shane Price
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you should be using an electric pump anyway, I'd say use the FI case.. It actually should be an AS 21 case, probably coded "AJ".

I have a T1 alignbore bar that I never use, probably haven't used it twice in the last 10 years.. If you'll come get it and clean it and all the cutters up really well I'll let you use it to cut the case..
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Jake Raby
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your the shit!! I will definately do that. I've never done it before but I have couple of scrap cases I can use for practice. I'm sure what ever case Jon uses will need to be cut too. B y the time I get em both done I'll be a stinkin pro! As far as tha case I'll have to look again. I thought they were both 41's but I could be wrong. Do you always alignbore cases for perfornce app.s or only if it needs it?
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Shane Price
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most every performance engine I have built based on the TI has been with a new case.. I try to stay away from alignboring..
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Jake Raby
57 Oval
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was originaly thinking 1776 maybe 1835 with stock dp heads and kads. Would 36or40mm dells be too much for that? Or if I go 1914 would stock heads be a bad idea and would kads be too little carberation? I had a basic idea of what I wanted. But now the more we talk about it and the more I think about it I cant decide. On one hand a mild 1776 would be major improvement over my stocker then on the other hand hell I may as well go all out 1914 35.5x40 heads and 40mm dells witha good cam and have a bad mofo. Besides me being a mechanic and driving a stock engine, that just aint right. Rolling Eyes
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Shane Price
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spend some money on the heads or don't bother going bigger.. Doing so just moves the powerband down, making power where it can't be used..
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Jake Raby
57 Oval
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serprice



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 349
Location: Statham

1974 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a little time to decide what I'm gonna do anyway. No need to be in a hurry to go fast Rolling Eyes Most likely I'll still go 1776 with dual kads. Atleast for this one. Anyway,I do appreciate all the insight and the offer to use your stuff. I will definately take advantage. Anything I can do for you dont hesitate. Cool
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Shane Price
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Jon
Site Admin


Joined: 01 Jun 2006
Posts: 2421
Location: Bishop GA

1969 Volkswagen Type 3

PostPosted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

serprice wrote:
I have a little time to decide what I'm gonna do anyway. No need to be in a hurry to go fast Rolling Eyes Most likely I'll still go 1776 with dual kads. Atleast for this one. Anyway,I do appreciate all the insight and the offer to use your stuff. I will definately take advantage. Anything I can do for you dont hesitate. Cool

Go BIG or go HOME! If you build a 1776 it won't be long before you say "Why didn't I build something bigger?" Seriously.
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