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1965 Beetle Rebuild
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Clyde!

Working on the turn signal switch this weekend. Disassemble, paint, clean, lube, reassemble, and hope all the little springs, pawls, and cams = a fully functional thing. Also, because the original steering wheel is shot (saving it though, in case I want to try a resto later on), I got my hands on a Flat-4 repro, that looks really nice! Wasn't cheap, but I wasn't sure about some of the others that are out there. Hoping to have the signal, wheel, and original 64-65 straight-bar (ringless) horn ring in place the next day or two.

Potential obstacle: the can of Silver-White spray paint I got from Wolfburg West says, "For best results, do not apply in high heat or humidity." Ie, wait til November? Take it with me next time I'm in, like, Manitoba? Those Californians don't know how good they have it!
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Jon
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Joined: 01 Jun 2006
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Location: Bishop GA

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce Jacobs wrote:
Thanks Clyde!


Potential obstacle: the can of Silver-White spray paint I got from Wolfburg West says, "For best results, do not apply in high heat or humidity." Ie, wait til November? Take it with me next time I'm in, like, Manitoba? Those Californians don't know how good they have it!


That's what kitchens are for. Cool



Seriously, I paint in my garage all the time with no ill effects. It is cooler and somewhat less humid than outdoors.
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hah! Don't think the kitchen idea didn't cross my mind (was actually thinking the ratty closet where we keep the kitty pans) -- but after that weather moved through, the humidity dropped significantly. And it was (relatively) cool yesterday morning at 6am, so I had at it with the paint.

Looks okay (considering it's from a can) but am a little disappointed in the color match. I've used the Krylon Satin "Almond" and thought maybe the WW paint would be a closer match. But it looks pretty much like the Krylon. (Maybe it actually is the Krylon, except it says "Wolfsburg West" and is about x4 on the price?) But again, for a sunny-day driver, it'll work for now. For the money, shoulda stuck with the Krylon.

On the subject of paint, though, what I am impressed with is Tower Paint (http://www.apstowerpaint.com). Due to miscellaneous reassembly scratches, dings, etc I ordered both a can of their "SprayMax" 1K as well as a small touch-up bottle, done up in L456 Ruby Red. I even did the radio delete plate with it -- paint guy did a great job on it, but painted only one side -- the wrong side! I prolly shoulda been more specific. Anyhow, it looks pretty darn good, and the color match is spot on!

Again, I'll post a dash shot once I get the turn signal switch and wheel attached. Not show-quality, but so far, so good.
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Dash done. Yes, I know the steering column is painted red. Another thing I failed to oversee sufficiently. But will live with it for now.

Best of all, my refurb of the turn signal switch appears to have worked, at least mechanically. Switch stays where you put it, and self-cancels when you turn the wheel the other way. Of course, haven't finished the electrical side of things yet, but that's gonna wait for another day.
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Greg



Joined: 12 Aug 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, looks great!
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Joe



Joined: 01 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good and I like the column red
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
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Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all! And yeah, I think I could live with the red column. Doesn't seem worth the trouble to paint it again.
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Dakine



Joined: 07 Feb 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW.... Awesome! I only wish..
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a while since my last post. I have been slow but not idle.

Pretty much everything besides the engine (pending) and transmission (which I'm leaving alone until it gives me trouble) is done. Sure, there will always be "weekend projects", but most of the big stuff is done: body, paint, entire interior, rubber, rebuilt wiper mechanism, rebuilt turn signal switch, rebuilt Bosch starter/solenoid (w/ proper bushing) all new harness, all new brake system from (dual circuit) MC to drums, new front wheel bearings, axle boots, original fuel tank decrudded, sealed (POR-15 system), painted, new e-brake, heater, clutch/Bowden tube, and accelerator cables, blasted/powder coated/painted steelies (which I have a funny feeling about, balance-wise, but am not thinking about that right now).

I've left the engine for the very last thing. When I say "engine" I mean ancillaries, too -- carb (which I'll rebuild again since it's been sitting), exhaust, shroud with proper flap thingies, generator, dizzy, etc..

I've never done this before. I have read many books (Wilson, Bentley, Muir, Fisher), bought and watched the Bug-Me video, and spent probably way too many hours on theSamba. Since I'm a newbie (and because I drive as slow as I work) I'm going for a more-or-less stock rebuild -- 40-horse, 28-pict, fresh-air, late square-boss heads (assuming they're good), dunno yet for a dizzy (.009 that it came with? Or find a useable OG unit?). Hoping to start the big teardown tomorrow or the next day.

My main question (for now -- I'm sure there will be many more) is this: is there somebody local-ish, familiar with VW's, who can inspect the case, heads, crank, etc., make recommendations, and do the necessary machine-work? I know I can probably send all this stuff off to somewhere in California, but would rather work with somebody I can meet and talk to.

Also, anyone know of good sources for 40-horse parts, like if I need new pistons/cylinders? Most of the US suppliers that I know of don't seem to have them. Pretty sure you can get that stuff in the UK, since the 1200 was offered much later than here, but again, would rather not go that far afield.
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Clyde



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
Posts: 855
Location: Athens


PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have you covered Bruce. The 77mm p&c sets can be hard to find, last time I ordered them, they sent an 83mm oversize slip in upgrade set, which increases displacement and compression (a good thing).
I can linebore your case if it needs it, and thrust cut too. Bring it over when you're ready.
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome Clyde -- just what I was hoping for. I knew you are a machinist, but wasn't aware that you were set up for this.

I must say I am intrigued by the 83mm idea. I read about that somewhere fairly recently. Would be kinda cool to say, "Yeah, it's a 1400." So I'm open to it.

I'll give you a shout soon -- already starting a list for parts.
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Mountain Power House



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 879
Location: Aircooled Heaven USA


PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The web cam #86 is PERFECT for that big bore engine :-)
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mountain Power House wrote:
The web cam #86 is PERFECT for that big bore engine :-)


Big bore hah!

Thanks for the tip on that. Will check it out. I realize one thing could beget another could beget another . . . but am open to some mild, subtle, "sensible" upgrades. I would be perfectly content to have the power similar to the later 1600dp but with the look of the earlier motor. If that cam will get me there that would be a definite consideration. Overall, I want durability, reliability, and efficient cooling over more power/performance.
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, good enough for today. Haven't gotten to the actual engine yet, but most everything else came apart or off without drama -- shroud/gen, intake manf/riser/carb, gen stand, fuel pump, dizzy, etc. Bottom part of bakelite fuel pump stand broke off (or was already broken?) in its bore, but that's apparently common. I'll remove the rest of it from the inside?

The only hitch, so far, is that the FRONT (cyl. 1/3 side) nuts where the heater boxes attach to the heads are rusted hard on both sides. Soaked in WD-40 but no avail.

Will let soak overnight and try again. In the Bug-Me video, he discusses this possibility, and splits the nut with a hammer and chisel. Good idea if it's still stuck tomorrow? What about using some heat action here?

And for a (hopefully) academic question: is entire head kaputt if I break that stud?

Progressing slowly, cooly calculating. Good time to go for a bike ride. Hope to have more time tomorrow, then out of town for a little while.

B.
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Clyde



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Breaking a stud isn't a big deal. Well just drill it out and stick a new one in there. I use a cutoff wheel in a dremel to slot the nut. Then back it open with the chisel.
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