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Valve adjustment fiasco

 
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Treehive



Joined: 25 Feb 2008
Posts: 58
Location: Alpharetta, Ga


PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:55 pm    Post subject: Valve adjustment fiasco Reply with quote

Let me preface this by apologizing to Mr. Raby, who all but held my hand 2 months ago when I first learned this procedure. Also, any Type IV guys, PLEASE chime in.

The quick version:
I thought that I had cylinder one in firing position (my rotor was pointing at the wire on the distributor that is furthest back on the right). My understanding is that is one, two being below that, three being to the left of two, and four being above three. Correct?

I removed the valve cover on the passenger side which houses the #'s 1 & 2 intake and exhaust valves. Correct?

I checked the #1 exhaust valve, which is the one closest to the front of the vehicle and the intake which is right behind it. Correct?

I couldn't even get close to getting the feeler gauge in the gap in the exhaust valve, and I had to almost completely loosen the adjustment screw to get a gap big enough for .006 (I had to turn the screw almost 4-5 full 360 degree turns). The # 1 intake valve seemed fine Question Question Question

Before I started the process, there was no issues with the bus running properly. No strange noises, no hiccups, no loss of power. I was just wanting to check the valves to make an adjustment if necessary and to learn the procedure.

What am I doing wrong? When # 1 is in firing position, should you be able to adjust the # 1 intake and exhaust valves at the same time, or do you have to turn the engine 90 degrees for each one?

I'm scared that I screwed up the # 1 valve by fiddling with the adjustment screw, so the bus is now parked until I figure this whole thing out. Thanks everyone.
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71_georgia_beetle



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 440
Location: Grayson, GA

1974 Volkswagen Westfalia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The quick version:
I thought that I had cylinder one in firing position (my rotor was pointing at the wire on the distributor that is furthest back on the right). My understanding is that is one, two being below that, three being to the left of two, and four being above three. Correct?

I removed the valve cover on the passenger side which houses the #'s 1 & 2 intake and exhaust valves. Correct?

I checked the #1 exhaust valve, which is the one closest to the front of the vehicle and the intake which is right behind it. Correct?(Correct)

I couldn't even get close to getting the feeler gauge in the gap in the exhaust valve, and I had to almost completely loosen the adjustment screw to get a gap big enough for .006 (I had to turn the screw almost 4-5 full 360 degree turns). The # 1 intake valve seemed fine Question Question Question (Didn't you have a tight exhaust valve last time?)

Before I started the process, there was no issues with the bus running properly. No strange noises, no hiccups, no loss of power. I was just wanting to check the valves to make an adjustment if necessary and to learn the procedure.

What am I doing wrong? When # 1 is in firing position, should you be able to adjust the # 1 intake and exhaust valves at the same time, or do you have to turn the engine 90 degrees for each one?

I'm scared that I screwed up the # 1 valve by fiddling with the adjustment screw, so the bus is now parked until I figure this whole thing out. Thanks everyone.

13mm Box Wrench

19mm Box Wrench

Slotted Tip Screwdriver

Feeler Gauge

Valve Cover Gaskets (2)



The valves should only be done with the engine COLD. That means you should do it only after the engine has been sitting overnight. You can adjust the valves with the car on the ground, but if you have access to a floor jack and jack stands it will save your back. You need to know that cylinder #1 is on the passenger side toward the front of the car. #2 is behind it on the passenger side with #3 being on the driver’s side toward the front of the car and #4 on the driver’s side toward the rear of the car.



The first thing you need to do is get #1 at TDC (Top Dead Center). Use your slotted screwdriver and remove the 2 clips that hold the distributor cap on. Under the cap the distributor has a filed slot that indicates #1. You need to rotate the engine until the tip of the rotor points to that mark. To rotate the engine use your 19mm box wrench to turn the generator or alternator pulley. That will cause the crank pulley to turn also. You will notice a notch on the crank pulley. That also indicates TDC.



When #1 is at TDC you need to remove both valve covers. Use your slotted screwdriver to pull the valve cover bail down and the valve covers can be pulled off. At this time you should examine the cork gaskets. If they need to be replaced, remove them and clean the mating surface of the valve cover. Apply a thin coat of Permatex gasket adhesive to the valve cover only… not to the head.



Now you are ready to adjust the valves. Using your feeler gauge check the clearance of both intake and exhaust valves of cylinder #1. I set mine to 0.006”, but some early cars use 0.004” and some aftermarket cams use other specs. If they are OK, you can leave them. If they need to be adjusted use you 13mm wrench to unlock the jam nut and use the slotted screwdriver to adjust the clearance. When it’s at 0.006” tighten the jam nut and then recheck with the feeler gauge.



Now turn the gen/alt pulley nut counterclockwise 180 degrees. A degreed pulley makes this easy, but if you have a stock pulley, just turn it until the TDC mark is at the bottom. Now you are ready to adjust #2. You do it the same as #1. When that’s done turn the pulley another 180 degrees and #3 should be at TDC. Adjust #3 like the others and turn the pulley a final 180 degrees and #4 will be at TDC. When #4 is done you should reinstall the valve covers and reinstall the distributor cap.


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74 Westfalia "Winifrid"
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Joe



Joined: 01 Jun 2006
Posts: 453
Location: Hephzibah,Ga


PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 6:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Valve adjustment fiasco Reply with quote

[quote="Treehive"

Before I started the process, there was no issues with the bus running properly. No strange noises, no hiccups, no loss of power. I was just wanting to check the valves to make an adjustment if necessary and to learn the procedure.

.[/quote



Never fix what ain't broke. Rolling Eyes
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Treehive



Joined: 25 Feb 2008
Posts: 58
Location: Alpharetta, Ga


PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

71_georgia_beetle wrote:
The quick version:
I thought that I had cylinder one in firing position (my rotor was pointing at the wire on the distributor that is furthest back on the right). My understanding is that is one, two being below that, three being to the left of two, and four being above three. Correct?

I removed the valve cover on the passenger side which houses the #'s 1 & 2 intake and exhaust valves. Correct?

I checked the #1 exhaust valve, which is the one closest to the front of the vehicle and the intake which is right behind it. Correct?(Correct)

I couldn't even get close to getting the feeler gauge in the gap in the exhaust valve, and I had to almost completely loosen the adjustment screw to get a gap big enough for .006 (I had to turn the screw almost 4-5 full 360 degree turns). The # 1 intake valve seemed fine Question Question Question (Didn't you have a tight exhaust valve last time?)

Before I started the process, there was no issues with the bus running properly. No strange noises, no hiccups, no loss of power. I was just wanting to check the valves to make an adjustment if necessary and to learn the procedure.

What am I doing wrong? When # 1 is in firing position, should you be able to adjust the # 1 intake and exhaust valves at the same time, or do you have to turn the engine 90 degrees for each one?

I'm scared that I screwed up the # 1 valve by fiddling with the adjustment screw, so the bus is now parked until I figure this whole thing out. Thanks everyone.

13mm Box Wrench

19mm Box Wrench

Slotted Tip Screwdriver

Feeler Gauge

Valve Cover Gaskets (2)



The valves should only be done with the engine COLD. That means you should do it only after the engine has been sitting overnight. You can adjust the valves with the car on the ground, but if you have access to a floor jack and jack stands it will save your back. You need to know that cylinder #1 is on the passenger side toward the front of the car. #2 is behind it on the passenger side with #3 being on the driver’s side toward the front of the car and #4 on the driver’s side toward the rear of the car.



The first thing you need to do is get #1 at TDC (Top Dead Center). Use your slotted screwdriver and remove the 2 clips that hold the distributor cap on. Under the cap the distributor has a filed slot that indicates #1. You need to rotate the engine until the tip of the rotor points to that mark. To rotate the engine use your 19mm box wrench to turn the generator or alternator pulley. That will cause the crank pulley to turn also. You will notice a notch on the crank pulley. That also indicates TDC.



When #1 is at TDC you need to remove both valve covers. Use your slotted screwdriver to pull the valve cover bail down and the valve covers can be pulled off. At this time you should examine the cork gaskets. If they need to be replaced, remove them and clean the mating surface of the valve cover. Apply a thin coat of Permatex gasket adhesive to the valve cover only… not to the head.



Now you are ready to adjust the valves. Using your feeler gauge check the clearance of both intake and exhaust valves of cylinder #1. I set mine to 0.006”, but some early cars use 0.004” and some aftermarket cams use other specs. If they are OK, you can leave them. If they need to be adjusted use you 13mm wrench to unlock the jam nut and use the slotted screwdriver to adjust the clearance. When it’s at 0.006” tighten the jam nut and then recheck with the feeler gauge.



Now turn the gen/alt pulley nut counterclockwise 180 degrees. A degreed pulley makes this easy, but if you have a stock pulley, just turn it until the TDC mark is at the bottom. Now you are ready to adjust #2. You do it the same as #1. When that’s done turn the pulley another 180 degrees and #3 should be at TDC. Adjust #3 like the others and turn the pulley a final 180 degrees and #4 will be at TDC. When #4 is done you should reinstall the valve covers and reinstall the distributor cap.



Thanks Scotty. I have read the Muir explanation several times, but have had a hard time conceptualizing it while I was working. Basically, it seems that I had the engine set at # 2 when I was attempting the adjustment (according to the diagram that you posted). I'll give it another go on thurs after work and see if I have better luck.
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Treehive



Joined: 25 Feb 2008
Posts: 58
Location: Alpharetta, Ga


PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Valve adjustment fiasco Reply with quote

Joe wrote:
[quote="Treehive"

Before I started the process, there was no issues with the bus running properly. No strange noises, no hiccups, no loss of power. I was just wanting to check the valves to make an adjustment if necessary and to learn the procedure.

.[/quote



Never fix what ain't broke. Rolling Eyes


I have a bad habit of disassembling things in my life that are not in need of repair Razz . It ain't fixed until I break it.......or some bullshit like that Shocked
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Ted Mierzwa

"You don't need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows"

74 Westy
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Clyde



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
Posts: 855
Location: Athens


PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fixing it before it's broke is called maintenance. I'm proud that you're trying, Ted. Mistakes are proof that you're learning.
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71_georgia_beetle



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 440
Location: Grayson, GA

1974 Volkswagen Westfalia

PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

and.....if it ain't broke there's a chance I can still fix it.
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74 Westfalia "Winifrid"
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Treehive



Joined: 25 Feb 2008
Posts: 58
Location: Alpharetta, Ga


PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

71_georgia_beetle wrote:
The quick version:
I thought that I had cylinder one in firing position (my rotor was pointing at the wire on the distributor that is furthest back on the right). My understanding is that is one, two being below that, three being to the left of two, and four being above three. Correct?

I removed the valve cover on the passenger side which houses the #'s 1 & 2 intake and exhaust valves. Correct?

I checked the #1 exhaust valve, which is the one closest to the front of the vehicle and the intake which is right behind it. Correct?(Correct)

I couldn't even get close to getting the feeler gauge in the gap in the exhaust valve, and I had to almost completely loosen the adjustment screw to get a gap big enough for .006 (I had to turn the screw almost 4-5 full 360 degree turns). The # 1 intake valve seemed fine Question Question Question (Didn't you have a tight exhaust valve last time?)

Before I started the process, there was no issues with the bus running properly. No strange noises, no hiccups, no loss of power. I was just wanting to check the valves to make an adjustment if necessary and to learn the procedure.

What am I doing wrong? When # 1 is in firing position, should you be able to adjust the # 1 intake and exhaust valves at the same time, or do you have to turn the engine 90 degrees for each one?

I'm scared that I screwed up the # 1 valve by fiddling with the adjustment screw, so the bus is now parked until I figure this whole thing out. Thanks everyone.

13mm Box Wrench

19mm Box Wrench

Slotted Tip Screwdriver

Feeler Gauge

Valve Cover Gaskets (2)



The valves should only be done with the engine COLD. That means you should do it only after the engine has been sitting overnight. You can adjust the valves with the car on the ground, but if you have access to a floor jack and jack stands it will save your back. You need to know that cylinder #1 is on the passenger side toward the front of the car. #2 is behind it on the passenger side with #3 being on the driver’s side toward the front of the car and #4 on the driver’s side toward the rear of the car.



The first thing you need to do is get #1 at TDC (Top Dead Center). Use your slotted screwdriver and remove the 2 clips that hold the distributor cap on. Under the cap the distributor has a filed slot that indicates #1. You need to rotate the engine until the tip of the rotor points to that mark. To rotate the engine use your 19mm box wrench to turn the generator or alternator pulley. That will cause the crank pulley to turn also. You will notice a notch on the crank pulley. That also indicates TDC.



When #1 is at TDC you need to remove both valve covers. Use your slotted screwdriver to pull the valve cover bail down and the valve covers can be pulled off. At this time you should examine the cork gaskets. If they need to be replaced, remove them and clean the mating surface of the valve cover. Apply a thin coat of Permatex gasket adhesive to the valve cover only… not to the head.



Now you are ready to adjust the valves. Using your feeler gauge check the clearance of both intake and exhaust valves of cylinder #1. I set mine to 0.006”, but some early cars use 0.004” and some aftermarket cams use other specs. If they are OK, you can leave them. If they need to be adjusted use you 13mm wrench to unlock the jam nut and use the slotted screwdriver to adjust the clearance. When it’s at 0.006” tighten the jam nut and then recheck with the feeler gauge.



Now turn the gen/alt pulley nut counterclockwise 180 degrees. A degreed pulley makes this easy, but if you have a stock pulley, just turn it until the TDC mark is at the bottom. Now you are ready to adjust #2. You do it the same as #1. When that’s done turn the pulley another 180 degrees and #3 should be at TDC. Adjust #3 like the others and turn the pulley a final 180 degrees and #4 will be at TDC. When #4 is done you should reinstall the valve covers and reinstall the distributor cap.



Ok.....I figured out what my problem is. Based on the picture that Scott posted, my distributor is in the wrong position and # 1 is where # 3 is located. WHY???? PO trickery or is it b/c it's a type IV? Someone tell me WTF is up with that. Does it not matter as long as the wires run to to the spark plugs properly? This whole process would be more understandable to me if my engine and it's various components had a universality that jived with the Muir and Bently, but alas, this is not the case. Question
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74 Westy
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scott



Joined: 15 Nov 2007
Posts: 279
Location: bethlehem ga

1968 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i adjusted mine i did it 3 times just to make sure- you will get it with more practice-just dont give up!!! Very Happy
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