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Engine removal finds

 
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71_georgia_beetle



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 440
Location: Grayson, GA

1974 Volkswagen Westfalia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:47 pm    Post subject: Engine removal finds Reply with quote

The 71 beetle had a few leaks, chattering clutch and a poorly tuned carb so...............I pulled the damn thing. Mainly as a self teaching tool and ultimately correct the problem areas. All of this stems from my new addiction to the Bug Me Video collection. There's a really cool video of this little skinny guy rebuilding a TIV. Wink

What I found is: My 1600 dual port is a 1500 single port. There was a small amount (2-3oz) of oil in the transmission housing.

Questions: 1. With the small amount of oil in the trans case I assume I need to replace the crankcase seal as long as the rear main bearing is ok and there is not alot/excessive up and down play in the flywheel, correct?
2. From past oil changes, the area that the sump plate bolts to has either decayed from excessive moisture or was a bad casting and is very rough and thin, thickness wise. This causes one of my leaks because it cannot be tightened very well. I need a new case. Does the case make the engine size? Or the heads? Or........?
3. Does it make since to buy a new case and rebuild as a 1500 or start over and look for a refurbish-able 1600?
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Greg



Joined: 12 Aug 2009
Posts: 490
Location: Jefferson, GA

1969 Volkswagen Beetle

PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll answer what I can, others can correct as needed Smile.

It will be cheaper to rebuild what you have since you already have the heads, carb, intake etc. That being said, if you want to go fast(er), now is the time to make it happen. The piston and cylinders are what dicate the size of the engine. Not sure but I think a stock case can accept pistons and cylinders from 1200cc up to 17 something. You could replace your 1500 jugs and pistons with at least a 1600 P/C set pretty easily.
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Jon
Site Admin


Joined: 01 Jun 2006
Posts: 2421
Location: Bishop GA

1969 Volkswagen Type 3

PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you sure it is a 1500 SP? In 70 VW installed a 1600SP in bugs. It is the best engine combo for daily driving in my opinion. It has plenty of power for daily driving, gets good mpg, and is simple.

If you do need to rebuild due to your case being crappy, you can go 1600 SP or DP. Larger displacement will mean machining the block.
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cavediver520



Joined: 04 Apr 2009
Posts: 49



PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're not wanting to do any machining of the case i would say stay with the SP. It has more torque than the dual port IMHO. I love my single port, but I also just built a DP1776 that I love also. Many questions must be answered before you can decide what to build. The main one being what do you want the engine to do for you.
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Bruce Jacobs



Joined: 29 Jan 2009
Posts: 129
Location: Athens, GA


PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled my engine a few months ago, and set it aside while I get the body straight. In the meantime, I read (cover to cover) Tom Wilson's How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine to give me something to ponder (as if I'm not losing enough sleep).

It's a little dated, but there is some excellent interchange information about what works with what. He also discusses what you could do (like huge jugs on a 1200 case); versus what might make better sense (just get a newer case). Don't quote me on this stuff since I'm learning, but I'm sure it would address your issues.

I found the book, incidentally, at one of the local book stores. But most of the online suppliers have it, I think.
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71_georgia_beetle



Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 440
Location: Grayson, GA

1974 Volkswagen Westfalia

PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all and I actually have that book Bruce. I'll have to break it out again.

Jon, It might be a 1600sp. I didn't know there was such a thing. How can I tell? I have an B case.

What do I want from the engine? What I have. It has plenty of power for what I need. I just want to freshen up what I have.
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Ruptured Duck



Joined: 28 Dec 2009
Posts: 59
Location: Gainseville Ga


PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 70 bug I'm building was the last run of the SP motors before it changed to DP... It's a 1600 (1575 something I think.. correct me if I'm wrong)..

You can install 87mm pistons and jugs without modification to help a little on the power side. I think this gets it up in the 1700 area.

Sense we increased to 87mm I also added dual carbs.. 34's.. I hope I can keep them tuned correctly.

What I learned was that it's a lot cheaper to just go ahead and get new rods, pistons and jugs than to hope all the old stuff in in spec. Found out that I had a rod with a wrist pin bushing slightly our of spec. Piston slap is a lot louder than you think it should be in a bug. Had to take the motor out again and will be adding all the new parts that I should have done in the first place.

Again, new to the Bug thing so please correct me if I am wrong on any or all of what I have said.. Laughing
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cavediver520



Joined: 04 Apr 2009
Posts: 49



PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can install 87mm pistons and jugs without modification to help a little on the power side. I think this gets it up in the 1700 area.

That makes 1641 as long as you use stock stroke crank. Very Happy
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Ruptured Duck



Joined: 28 Dec 2009
Posts: 59
Location: Gainseville Ga


PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cavediver520 wrote:
You can install 87mm pistons and jugs without modification to help a little on the power side. I think this gets it up in the 1700 area.

That makes 1641 as long as you use stock stroke crank. Very Happy


Thank you... ! Embarassed
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